Trip to the land of the Saami

This page tells the story of four Greeks visiting the northernmost part of Sweden (the land of the Saami...) in January 2012. It is in form of a Journal but links are provided where necessary to help those wanting to perform a similar trip. Hope you enjoy!

Day 1:

The trip started from Amsterdam around 11:30. We had carefully planned our arrival to Eindhoven airport (as the flight was with Ryanair to Skavsta) and took the car after having secured a parking spot at the TomTom office which is located only 5min walk from the airport! Driving took almost 1:30 hours and at 13:00 we were there! The suitcase was pre-weighted so we lost no time there and since there was no cue (NO ONE!) this took only a few seconds! The luggage control was fairly simple and they seem to check only the hand luggage that one cannot carry in their back. Ours was less than 10kg so no problems there!

Plane was on time and at 16:50 we were in Stockholm! We had booked tickets for the bus that would take us to the city. The suitcase was on the belt as we entered the terminal (those Swedes….) and the bus to Stockholm left on time. The ride is 1:30 so around 18:00 we were at City Terminalen which is also the Stockholm train station!

The train left with a short delay of 20mins so this was around 21:25. It was really comfortable and the 6berth cabin shared with 2 Swedes was a great experience. At 23:00 lights went off and we took a long sleep after a tiring day as the train slowly approached the Arctic Circle!

Day 2:

Eagar to get a glimpse of the landscape we set our alarms at 8:00 and got a chance to view the beautiful Scandinavian nature until 10:06 when we reached Boden and had to change trains! What an experience to get from +25 to -10 and wait there for 40mins!
 
Luckily our connecting train was on time (10:43) and we sat comfortably to an almost empty of passengers wagon for the next 3 hours until we reached the mining town of Kiruna at 13:59 sharp!

We had book rooms at a place called Logikonferens which is some kind of school that has apartments for students and whatever is left they use it as a hotel. Still, it was a great choice, very clean, great facilities but a bit far from the city center (around 10min walk). We settled there and started out to explore the city! Don’t expect amazing nightlife, bars everywhere and crowds of people taking their evening walk. You should be happy to spot 1 person and 1 dog every 30min! Still it is nice to explore the town and grab what it can offer.
In our case the church was a place to visit and spend some time there.

When it was 18:00 and we finally started to get hungry the big quest of what to eat started. Don’t expect many choices here..The only place within walking distance (in -12) we found was the Scandic hotel restaurant, a cozy place with nice food (try their Swedish meatballs…). Bit expensive but definitely worth it (as we went there the next day too).

This long day ended with a warm sleep back at our nice hotel room.

Day 3:

The third day started with a wonderful idea! Why not renting a car?? So we did! We tried AVIS and got a good deal (a Dacia SUV) for the day.

We drove off to Nikkaluokta and along the way we had a chance to spot a few wild moose and some reindeers! The village was after a long bridge but not much to see or do there as everything was closed.

At 15:00 we had booked tickets to go to the mine tour which lasted 2:45 and took us underground in the world’s biggest ore mine, just 10min outside the town of Kiruna. The tour itself was very impressive and our tour guide extremely educative and willing to explain everything in detail. In there we had the chance to see a small presentation on LKAB, understand all about the mine (and why it is so important to the economy of Sweden), have a cup of coffee and visit a museum.

Once again over ground we decided to drive to Jukkasjärvi the village famous for its Ice Hotel! I guess it was much more impressive that anyone of us ever imagined and even though we had a drink on one of their ice cups (“on the rocks” has a true meaning here…) we could not stand much the -5. Thankfully the reception is a lot warmer so we spent some time there recovering from the bitter cold!

On our way back we tried a couple of restaurants in Kiruna but nothing was open so we went to our safe place (Scandic, meatballs, you know!).

Day 4:

On the fourth day we checked out the Logikonferens around 09:00 and went to the train station to pick the train to Narvik (leaving at 10:36). It was a cold morning but the sun was bright and sent its warm rays all over the place creating a wonderful atmosphere. On the train we viewed the wonderful scenery consisting of mountains and frozen lakes until we reached the Norwegian border where the fjord started! The view offered by the train is amazing!

We arrived at Narvik at 13:19 and went straight to our hostel. It is a small place called Spor1, nothing fancy, fairly simple but well located. If you thought there is nothing to do in Kiruna well this place is the capital of nothing to do (at least in the winter time). Still one can find nice walks and the view from the mountain is breathtaking. Too bad the day is too short. I guess in the summer time and having a car must be very exciting!

Anyways, we had a relaxed walk, dinner at Peppes pizza (as much as you can for 99NOK!), a drink and then straight to bed!

Day 5:

Not knowing how amazing this day would be, we started at 09:00, slowly walking towards the Narvik station to pick the train at 10:02. Around 13:22 we arrived at Abisko Ostra, where we had booked rooms at a little place called Abisko Mountain Lodge. This was an amazing place, small, warm, nicely decorated with very friendly staff and highly recommended! All of us wished we had not spent the last night in Narvik and instead had one more day here!

Abisko is nothing more than a couple of hotels, a school, a train station and a huge (I mean HUGE) supermarket. All you can enjoy here is nature and the great outdoors. Considered to be one of the driest places in Europe, it is the perfect place for spotting the Northern Lights.

Having though so we booked an activity that would take us up a hill to see the Northern Lights. We had no idea that the previous day the sun had been unusually active and that all forecast was saying the sky would be full tonight. In the meantime we went to the super market close by and got some goodies! Around 19:00 we heard some aurora activity was going on so we quickly wore our warmest clothes and headed for an open space close by. And indeed! The sky was green and lights dancing everywhere! No words can describe what we saw! It lasted half an hour until it disappeared as magically as it had come.

At 21:00 we were ready (given special warm clothes from the hotel) for our walk. Our expectations were not high as we thought our luck had run out for the day. What a mistake! Our guide took us through the forest stopping every now and then and telling nice stories about the animals living there, the aurora itself, Abisko etc until we reach the top of a nearby hill. There was no activity just a greenish dark cloud in the sky. Our guide lit a nice fire (it was -23 by then) and offered warm drinks. All heads turned in the sky and hopes really high, the god of Aurora Borealis (whoever this might be!) heard us and the sky literally exploded! Green lights with a touch of purple started dancing all around us. The so called “night curtain” unraveled itself on the dark starry sky. No matter where we turned our heads there was some green light dancing. It was a sight one can never forget. After an hour, having frozen but so amazed, we started walking towards the hotel. On the sky above the Northern lights did not stop so I decided to have a warm cup of tea and head out there with my camera. After having completely frozen (me and my camera) I decided to go back to bed. The lights kept going on..

Day 6:

Waking up satisfied and happy with previous night, we had our breakfast and prepared for the 12:08 train that will take us back to Kiruna. We had booked 3 nights at Camp Alta with quite few activities. Before being picked up, we headed for the ICA supermarket to prepare for the cabin.

Our cabin (7 person one) was bit isolated from the campus so it was quite difficult to participate on the offered activities (ice fishing, sauna etc). Still on the first day we managed to have a barbeque (!) outside. Oh, yes! We lit a fire on the ground and cooked some delicious sausages, chicken wings and steaks. Best barbeque ever!

Day 7:

We woke up around 08:00 and prepared for the first activity which was snow scooter! We got a chance to drive one all the way from Altajärvi to the Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi through dense forest and lakes (around 38km both ways). Those machines can go up to 100km/h! Once again at the ice hotel we had the chance to have a guided tour but decided to skip as it was too expensive (375sek for 30min) so we went around in the village and all the way to the lovely church. Meeting on time we took the snow scooters back to the cabin and after lunch we decided to head to the frozen Altajärvi for ice fishing.

At first we tried axe and shovel but I think we would still be there trying to dig a hole! The ice was half a meter thick and using the axe to break it seemed impossible. So we decided to head to Alta main area (2.5km walk) on the frozen lake where we knew a drilling tool was available. Indeed we got our hands on it, drilled the holes and used our rods in hope for a nice fish in the oven. The result, after 30min waiting in -20 was to abandon the site and head for the warmth of our cabin!

Day 8:

After a good night sleep, we woke up and prepared for the next activity which was dog sledging. We were picked up around 09:00 and headed in the forest where our dogs awaited! After getting warm clothes and instructions on how to drive the sledge, we started our journey! It sounds difficult, but those smart creatures really know their way so the driver’s main task is to let them know when to stop and when to go!

Our journey lasted for an hour until we reached a warm cabin where our driver prepared some mushroom soup, toast and warm coffee. It was really refreshing and gave us power for the way back. At -15 and windy, it was not such an easy task. But we managed and got all the pleasure from riding the dogs in the vastness of the Swedish Lapland!

Upon returning to the camp, we had booked for some sauna but we never managed to light up the fire. It was a pity and we really needed that after a cold day. Instead, when we run out of matches and lighter fuel we walked the 2,5km on the frozen lake to our cabin. Luckily we found some warmth and prepared our nice food.

Day 9:

Feeling happy and full of great memories we took the morning flight at 07:10 from Kiruna to Stockholm, where we stayed for 4 days before returning to the Netherlands...